Joe Allen's Bar-B-Que is Deep in the Heart - and Stomachs - of West Texas

Perspectives of what constitutes not only good barbecue, but barbecue in general, is nearly as vast and varied as the shells on the seashore. Much like politics, religion, and sports, these BBQ views are often determined by the region, upbringing, and just plain old simple common sense.

As a South Carolinian, my barbecue world once consisted of pulled pork with either a mustard- or vinegar-based sauce. When done well, it is heavenly, to be certain. Back in 1992, though, long before Wally added the “Uncle” moniker, I found myself living in Abilene, Texas – 3 hours west of Dallas, 500 miles east of El Paso, and a world away for the Palmetto State.

West Texas: The land of scrubby mesquite trees, real cowboys, oil wells, wind (and consequently wind turbines), and football. Oh yeah, and cows. Lots of ‘em. Texas is a beef state for sure. Thus, its barbecue is of the bovine variety. When I experienced good brisket for the first time, a whole new universe of barbecue delight exploded right inside my mouth. Needless to say, my understanding of barbecue not only expanded but also changed. Now, brisket tops my list of favorite types of barbecue.

Now don’t worry, children, Uncle Wally still loves pork, chicken, turkey, sausage and other manners of meats, and I will devote plenty of time to them for your enjoyment. It’s tough being Uncle Wally, but somebody’s got to do it.

So, pig-pickers don’t fret. There’s loads of great barbecue to go around.  So let’s get back to brisket.

Abilene is in the heart of West Texas. Joe Allen’s Bar-B-Que is in the heart of Abilene. And now, Joe Allen’s chopped brisket sandwich is in the stomach of Uncle Wally. Joe Allen’s has been around since 1980 and has long been a barbecue staple in this part of the country. Joe’s son Josh is now at the helm and the family-owned barbecue joint enjoys a successful catering business that extends to their very own Lytle Bend Pavilion, a rustic venue perfect for rehearsal dinners, corporate outings, parties, and other events.

All that is fine and dandy, but what about the Q? Well, it’s hard to stay in the Texas barbecue business for over 35 years without producing some tasty fare and that is certainly the case with Joe Allen’s. If you’ll allow me to stray momentarily, the steaks at Joe Allen’s are incredible. Ordered by thickness, they are cooked over a flaming mesquite pit and melt in your mouth. But, alas, steak is not barbecue. No, it’s not.

On our last visit, we ventured in for lunch and took advantage of the day's daily lunch special  - chopped brisket sandwich, a side, and drink. The meat was chopped right in front of us and piled high on a bun. Suffice it to say that a lot of chopped sandwiches cross over the counter here, and for good reason. They are terrific. You can’t go wrong with this traditional go-to.

Having been here on numerous occasions, I can vouch for everything else, too. The sliced brisket is good. The turkey is good. The sausage is good. The ribs are good. If you venture into their sit-down-and-order-from-the-menu section, you can also enjoy steak, chicken fried steak, catfish, and more. It’s all good. And even though I rarely use the sauces they offer, they are good, too, especially the pepper sauce. A perfect blend of salt, pepper, and garlic powder make a tasty dry rub, which they use on most of their meats. You can even buy the rub for your own use at home.

While I no longer consider it the ideal wood for smoking meat, mesquite is the choice of Joe Allen’s pit masters. It is certainly plentiful in Abilene and throughout West Texas, and it does provide a nice flavor that is a little sweeter and lighter than hickory but stronger and more earthy than oak.

As far as sides go, in the barbecue line the choices are limited, but typical...and good. You’ll usually find well-cooked pintos, chunked potatoes swimming in melted butter, corn, cole slaw, potato salad, cooked cabbage, sliced jalapenos, pickles, onions, and warming drawers filled with homemade bread and jalapeno cornbread.

Uncle Wally tip: Grab a couple of slices of homemade bread and put them on your plate. Mosey a couple of steps back into the serving line, take the pinto bean spoon (because the potatoes spoon is slotted) and scoop some melted butter from the potatoes pan onto the bread. Not sure it’s allowed, in fact I’m confident it’s illegal in many states, but worth the risk.

A so-called buddy of mine made it a habit of going for lunch and just ordering a bowl of beans, all you can eat. Well, he’d get 2 slices of bread and fish the ham out of the beans and make a ham sandwich to accompany his beans. He thought it was clever. I thought it was bbq thievery, or at least tacky. Don’t be that guy.

Ultimately, Joe Allen’s is a darn-good restaurant with a neat West Texas vibe. If you travel the Lone Star State, you’ll find better barbecue if you look hard enough. Still, you won’t be disappointed here. As I’ve mentioned – it’s good, plain and simple.

Uncle Wally bonus: Joe Allen’s building is not their original locale. The new and improved structure gives them more room and was built from the dark and warn lumber from the old King Peanut Company in Abilene. My brother-in-law helped build it, and he crafted the beautiful bar in their saloon area. It’s worth a look, if not a cold Shiner to boot.

Even though they didn’t make Texas Monthly’s Top 50 (perplexing), due to the friendliness of the staff, authenticity of the restaurant, and good flavor of the meat, Joe Allen’s barbecue earns the title of “WallyQ “ – good job!