Willie Jewell’s a Gem of a Joint in Lexington

Born from Bono’s Pit Bar-B-Q, a Jacksonville staple since 1949, Willie Jewell’s Old School Bar-B-Q offers tasty fare in a faster, more casual setting. The latest installment at Saluda Pointe Court in Lexington, SC joins a growing list of Wille Jewell's restaurants spread across Florida, Georgia, and South Carolina.

I’m not usually particularly interested in chain restaurants, as I find the single locally-owned joints much more noteworthy and typically tastier.  After reading the Willie Jewell’s story, though, I became fascinated and decided to give it a shot.

Smaller than your typical barbecue restaurant, Willie Jewell’s Lexington location gave me a quick sense of uncertainty as I approached the entrance. Not sure barbecue should follow the fast food, assembly line path that has been followed by sandwich delis, Tex-Mex restaurants, and pizzerias. Granted, I enjoy those types of restaurants and they fit a busy schedule nicely. Still, barbecue? Smoking meat is not a quick process. Or shouldn’t be. Plus, when I want a chopped brisket sandwich or a 2-meat plate, I want to go inside, observe the carving, hear the chopping, sit back and take in the whole experience. Then, as I leave, possibly stuffed, I want to smell like the smoke from wood of choice at that establishment. It’s heavenly. Not quick.

My worries were soon assuaged as I passed a stack of split wood and stepped through the door. The service was quick, but it was definitely neither fast food nor assembly line. I admired the menu – extensive enough to require multiple trips to try it all, but limited enough to allow the restaurant to stick to doing what it does best – barbecue.

I was accompanied by my son and wife and we attacked the menu like a dedicated (and hungry) Wally Q team. I chose the 2-meat platter of brisket and sausage. My son went with a 2-meat platter of his own with turkey and pulled pork. My wife followed suit with a 2-meat choice as well – turkey and brisket - just on a salad. She’s much more disciplined than I.

Four types of sauces were offered at a self-serve counter. Low Country Gold was exactly what you’d expect and common to the Carolina area – slightly sweet and tangy with a hint of vinegar. Sweet and Sassy was exactly that, noticeably sweeter than the others with a touch of spice. Hickory Heaven, thickest of the sauces, had a definite sweet, smoky flavor and a rich deep color. Hot Momma had a delicate kick with a dash of sweetness. But, you know me – I want to taste the meat, not disguise it. So here we go…

The pulled pork had a delightfully clean, smooth essence with a refreshing smokiness that didn’t overpower the pork flavor. Neither dry nor greasy, this offering earns its own spot in the heart of pulled pork paradise.

The smoked sausage carried a tame but tasty flavor, and a little softer than I prefer. Still, I had no trouble gobbling down each juicy slice.

The smoked brisket delivered well, especially for South Carolina. The flavor didn’t blow me away, but it was certainly enjoyable. Brisket is not the easiest meat to prepare, but the longevity of the Bono’s/Willie Jewell’s method definitely shows here.

The crown jewel (see what I did there?) of the meal was the smoked turkey. This is worth the trip, folks. Juicy, but not greasy. Super tender. Wonderful smokiness. Absolutely fantastic. In fact, the turkey earns the industry-craved distinction of Wally Q! Congrats, Willie Jewell’s.

A quick word about the sides I had the privilege of sampling: The hush puppies were crisp with just the right consistency and pop. The delicious green beans were cooked with chopped meat, like all green beans should be cooked – chopped brisket in this case. The fries were on par, and the mac and cheese was hot and cheesy. Oh yeah – the salad? Let’s just say they were not sparing with the meat. I recommend, you guessed it, the turkey as one of the toppings.

Finally, the décor was inviting and appropriate. Ordering was easy and the service was fast. The crew was friendly and the sweet tea was sweet and fresh.

I’m not here to claim that this is the best barbecue I’ve ever eaten. It’s not. But it is pretty darn good and I will certainly return. Besides, I still need to taste the catfish and ribs, and having an excuse to go back to Willie Jewell's Old School Bar-B-Q is a good thing.